History is everywhere in Cartagena, including my personal history. I grew up on the same Caribbean coast, in the small city of Barranquilla, Colombia, and this part of the world will always feel like home to me. It may to you too.
Cartagena is unfailingly warm, friendly, mysterious, and seductive—especially inside the walled city, or ciudad amurallada. Walking the streets, you get a familiar yet nostalgic feeling, as if you've entered the pages of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. This is one of the oldest colonial cities in Latin America, and I always find the stories remain almost untouched. You will find magic in even the smallest of details, like the intricate doorknobs that adorn the city's colorful doorways. Even after many visits, there's always a sense of discovery.
When you visit Cartagena, you will need to use your time wisely in the early morning, as the heat is very intense from 11 A.M. to 4 P.M. I recommend venturing out for your morning café and settling into a bookshop to escape the sun for a little while. You can use the midday hours to lounge by the beach or by your hotel pool and by the late afternoon, you'll start to see the city come to life again.
Without a doubt, the charm of Cartagena is experiencing it like a local—getting lost in its tiny little streets and enjoying the chaos of a city full of life. There's music around every corner, whether it be cumbia and mapalé dancers, or musical trios roaming the streets. Not only is it vibrant and welcoming, but it is very safe too. Make sure to stop by the Portal de los Dulces in Plaza de los Coches for a selection of homemade coconut and tamarind candies, or head over to the local paletería in Plaza Bolívar for an ice-cold mango popsicle. As the sun sets, rent a bicycle for an evening ride along the walled city and return to your hotel to get dressed for a night on the town.
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Colombia is undoubtedly the best between October and March. It's much breezier, not to mention much less hot and humid, but beware of the busy Christmas season, when reservations tend to fill up quickly. If you visit towards the end of January, you'll also catch the Hay Festival, one of the most important international festivals in the country, celebrating vast genres of literature, visual arts, music, and cinema. The trip from New York is faster than you think, making it the perfect city for a long weekend escape. If you catch the 8 A.M. JetBlue flight, by lunchtime you'll be sitting at La Cevichería. |
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- Sofitel Legend Santa Clara: Once the Convent of the Poor Clares, originally built in 1621, this hotel is an absolute dream. Walking into its lush inner courtyard immediately transports you back in time.
- Casa Pestagua and Casa San Agustín: Two gorgeous sister boutique hotels in the heart of el Centro Histórico. In these luxe accommodations, you can rest assured knowing you will be well taken care of.
- Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa: A beautiful stay inside the old city that's home to one of the best restaurants, Harry's.
- Casa Lola: Located in the center of the Getsemaní neighborhood, this hotel is a magical realist jewel. Take your time observing the spectacular decor—and tell the owner Ignacio that Nina sent you!
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*If you're planning a trip for late 2025, definitely make sure to check out the new Four Seasons that is set to open. This hotel will be located at the end of the walled city and the start of the Getsemaní neighborhood. |
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- Mila: The cutest café. A great way to start your day or enjoy an afternoon coffee.
- La Esquina del Pandebono: A classic! Pick up some pandebono (a local cheesy bread), pan de yuca, and fresh fruit juices to take on the go. The perfect spot to grab a snack while you stroll the streets.
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- La Cevichería: Incredible ceviche and seafood. Plus, you must try the arroz con coco, a delicious brown rice cooked in coconut milk with raisins folded in. Do note, they don't take reservations, so get there at 1 P.M. sharp. A true hole-in-the-wall spot that's absolutely worth the wait.
- Restaurante Fuerte de Pastelillo: A longtime favorite of mine located in Cartagena's Club de Pesca. Stop by for a scenic lunch or dinner overlooking the water.
- Harry's Restaurant: A fantastic, family-friendly spot for lunch or dinner. Try the crab nachos and the milhojas for dessert.
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- La Vitrola: This restaurant is like being transported back in time or even into a James Bond movie. After ducking through a 5-foot-tall door, you're immediately in another realm. This spot is ideal for sitting at the bar, sipping an incredible cocktail, people-watching, and enjoying a delicious dinner. The ambiance is reminiscent of the Buena Vista Social Club in New York. Definitely snag a reservation in advance—it's a popular spot, and for good reason too!
- Donjuán: My favorite—absolutely elegant and delicious. You must try the crab claws.
- Juan del Mar and Da Pietro: Both amazing and both owned by the charming, English-speaking patron, Juan del Mar. Sit outside in the lively plaza for an evening of delicious food and live music or performances by the local trios and cumbia dancers. Juan del Mar offers an array of seafood and meat dishes, while Da Pietro is a classic pizza spot.
- Celele: On the Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list. A must-try.
- Agua de León: A relatively new, fun, and modern spot with amazing food.
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- El Barón: The perfect spot for delicious craft cocktails. A must!
- Café Havana: For after-dinner dancing at an iconic local gem, visit Café Havana! This salsa spot is never lacking in energy. It's a total local favorite.
- La Movida: Perfect for keeping the party going. On the rooftop, you'll find house music, and downstairs, an array of crossover music. No matter which floor, it's always a good time.
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- Rosario Islands: One of the two must-visit attractions near Cartagena. A bit rustic and unbelievably beautiful, las Islas del Rosario is an archipelago of about 30 small islands an hour away from Cartagena by boat (you can even rent your own!). If you choose to book your own private island, two of my favorites are Cala Mambo or the Isla Cuatro Aguas. Make sure to order fresh lobster and crab as you enjoy your own little oasis.
- Barú Island: Another beautiful island escape. It's a bit closer to Cartagena and accessible by car. Visit for a glimpse of Colombia's incredible wildlife or for a relaxing day in the sun.
- Aviario Nacional de Colombia: Did you know that Colombia has more bird species than any other country in the world? While on Barú, make sure to stop by the biggest aviary in Latin America! Home to almost 2,000 birds representing over 150 different species, this is a must-see.
- Beach Clubs: Just a short drive away from the city, a day of relaxation and beachside drinks awaits you. Make sure to stop by Makani or the Blue Apple Beach Club.
- El Castillo de San Felipe: Originally built in 1657, this fortress eventually became the site of quite a few standoffs between the Spaniards and the pirates! The storied building is a perfect opportunity to learn about the rich history of the city.
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